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The roles of Vitamin in skin As we know, the chemical changes induced by exposure to sunlight, we should be able to design a cosmeceutical regime to combat photodamage and reverse its effects. Vitamin molecules are the options and have the functions of metabolism, antioxidant and preventing free radical. 1.       Metabolism Vitamin A controls the conversion of pre–matrix metalloproteinases secreted by keratinocytes and fibroblasts into active matrix metalloproteinases, but with a deficiency of vitamin A, UV irradiation stimulates the unimpaired release of metalloproteinases that then destroy collagen and the anchoring fibrils. Without vitamin A, the rete pegs become flattened. Lang erhans cells need vitamin A to function, but if the vitamin A is inactivated by light, then they cannot function properly and recognize cells whose DNA has been damaged. 2.       Antioxidant Deficiencies of vitamin C permit more free radical damage . The main action of vitamin C is as an

AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) and BHAs (Beta hydroxy acids) The ingredients of AHAs & BHAs and their sources AHAs( water-soluble ) Glycolic acid: sugarcane Latic acid: milk, fruit Malic acid: apple Tartaric acid: grape Hydroxy caprylic acid: hops Citric acid: fruit BHAs ( lipid-soluble ) Salicylic acid: plants AHAs are water-soluble and can only penetrate the outer stratum corneum. The higher concentrations are used to induce an acid peeling effect . They are effective to stimulate keratinocyte growth. For medical treatment, the concentration is higher than 20%, even more than 50%. The main function of AHAs is to modify the barrier function of the skin.  There are the functions of some ingredients.  Glycolic acid can stimulates the production of collagen . Epidermal and dermal remodeling of the extracellular matrix can result from high concentrations. However, l onger treatment intervals may result in collagen deposition . These eff

Daily skin cleaning Skin cleansing with soaps and detergents cause barrier damage in epidermis. The surfactants in modern cleansing products are anionics, nonionics, and  amphoterics. The dermatological effects of surfactants on skin can be attributed to four fundamental mechanisms (1) adsorption to skin surface, (2) removal of skin components, (3) penetration into deeper skin layers, and (4) cytotoxic effects on living cells in the epidermis. They will affect barrier homeostasis of the skin and other physiological factors. Shortly after the application of surfactants, a Stratum corneum swelling occurs. Long-term application of surfactants, dehydration of the Stratum corneum occurs. They are derived lipids into lamellar bilayers are disrupted . The washing procedure is of particular importance for barrier lipids, barrier function, and Stratum corneum water content. Sensitive skin is considered a special condition in which there is reduced tolerance and high incidences of adv

There are many factors that cause skin damage. How does the damage result? They may be from the UV light, pollution , and so on. For example, photoaging and free radical. Then the cells are influenced.   photoaging Sunlight will cause phtoaging. Chronically irradiated skin is metabolically hyperactive, thus giving rise to epidermal hyperplasia and neoplasia , increased production of elastic fibers (solar elastosis), accelerated breakdown and synthesis of collagen , and enhanced inflammatory processes. If DNA damaged and a mutation occurs in the gene, the keratinocytes may lose their ability. Free radical and antioxidants Stratum corneum is frequently and directly exposed not only to UVR but also to other outside forces such as air pollutants, chemical oxidants, smoking, and microorganisms . They are the resources of free radicals . If the protection is insufficient, oxidative damage may occur . Then the chronic accumulation of such deviated cell components may result in t

The relations of UVlight and the molecular in the skin How do light damage skin? Light consists of a spectrum of photons which contain energy that vary according to the wavelength.  The light interacts on the molecular and then changes their chemical structure or on the subatomic level by creating free radicals. Otherwise, not only UV light but also green, blue, and violet light can damage cells. A photon’s energy can be absorbed into the molecule which is then altered. As the absorption of energy, it can also result in electron changes with the generation of free radicals. A free radical is in fact simply an atom with an unpaired electron that starts up a destructive concatenation of chemical reactions. It may end up causing damage in the cell membranes or in the DNA of the cell. The following are the reaction after exposure to UVB, UVA, and blue light. The influence of increased free radical activity DNA strand breaks occur from increased free radical activity. W e

The specific substance in cosmetic and skin care products Sun protection For UVA 1.       Benzophenone-3 2.       Benzophenone-4 3.       Benzophenone-8 4.       Oxybenzone 5.       Dioxybenzone 6.       Sulisobenzone 7.       Methyl anthranilate (better) 8.       Butyl methoxy dibenzoyl methane For UVB 1.       PABA 2.       DEA-methoxycinnamate 3.       Ethyldihydroxypropyl PABA 4.       Glycery PABA 5.       Homosalate (better) 6.       Octocrylene 7.       Octyl methoxycinnamate (parsol MCX) (better) 8.       Octyl salicylate (better) 9.       Octyl dimethyl PABA 10.   Phenyl benzimidazole sulfonic acid 11.   TEA-salicylate Easy to Allergy 1.       PABA/ para aminobenzoic acid 2.       Octyl dimethyl PABA 3.       Benzophenones the others: Natural material Whitening 1.       Mercurous compound 2.       Hydroquinone 3.       Vitamin C, L-ascorbic acid 4.       Azelaic acid 5.       Arbutin/ Ursin 6.