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Showing posts from September, 2016

80.Restricted ingredients in cosmetic and skin care products

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Restricted ingredients in cosmetic and skin care products by regulation. Ingredient Potential toxicity Hexachlorophene Neurotoxic effects Ability to penetrate human skin Mercury compounds Accumulation in the body Skin irritation Allergic reactions Neurotoxicity Bithionol Photocontact sensitization Halogenated salicylanilides Photocontact sensitization Chlorofluorocarbon propellants Hazardous to human health Chloroform Plausible carcinogenicity Vinyl chloride Plausible carcinogenicity Zirconium-containing complexes Lung toxicity Methylene chloride Plausible carcinogenicity help to find the specific skincare product ingredients by "skin+" App.

57.surfactant_3

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The characters of surfactant   Critical micelle concentration, CMC When there are too many surfactant molecules for the molecules to be comfortably spaced, they collect in balls called micelles with their water-hating end in the center and the water-loving end on the outside. As more water is added to a solution that contains micelles, surfactant molecule leaves the micelles if they can maintain their preferred spacing. As more water is added, there will be a point where there is just enough water so that there will be no more micelles and the surfactant molecules are tightly packed. This concentration is called the   Critical Micelle Concentration or CMC . Critical micelle concentration (CMC) is a measure of surfactant efficiency. A lower CMC indicates less surfactant is needed to saturate interfaces and form micelles. Typical CMC values are less than 1% by weight   -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- help to fi

56.surfactant_2

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Main functions of surfactant in cosmetics 1.   Stable the cosmetic It is as an emulsifier to reduce the interfacial tension of water and oil and increase the stability of cosmetics and skin care products. 2.    As the main ingredient of cosmetics Shampoo, body washes and shower gel are to remove dirt. The main ingredients are surfactants. The key points of surfactant 1.   has hydrophilic/ lipophobic and lipophilic/ hydrophobic at the same time 2.   The molecular weight is over 200 3.   The molecular weight of hydrophilic almost equals to molecular weight of lipophilic Ex 1. Ch 3 (CH 2 ) 2 COO - Na + : COO - Na + (hydrophilic) is far larger than CH 3 (CH 2 ) 2 .( lipophilic) It can’t be a surfactant. Ex 2. CH 3 (CH 2 ) 14 OH: CH 3 (CH 2 ) 14 (lipophilic) is far larger than OH (hydrophilic). It can’t be a surfactant. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- help to find the specific skincare product ingredi

55.hair condition

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There are many methods to detect the skin health, skin surface properties, skin color, skin color type, and hair conditions. They are non-intrusive . Hair conditions The hair conditions can be evaluated by the following methods.  Questionnaire Daily hair counts Standardized wash test Hair weight 60s hair pull test Hair pluck test/ trichogram Contrasting felt examination Global photographs   Dermoscopy/ videodermoscopy Trichoscan Scalp biopsy ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ help to find the specific skincare product ingredients by "skin+" App

54.Skin surface properties_microphotography

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There are many methods to detect the skin health, skin surface properties, skin color, skin color type, and hair conditions. They are non-intrusive. Skin surface properties Microphotography and image Use high-quality macrophotography—images to analysis the surface of skin. Various modes of lighting–tungsten, halogen, fluorescent, UV, and cross and parallel polarized light–can all be used . The option of the right lighting depends on the experience of obtaining the best images for analysis. Spectrofluorimetry is a valuable tool to characterize fluorescing constituents,  or fluorophores, in the skin. Fluorescence bands may originate from the amino acids tryptophan, tyrosine, and phenylalanine (excitation between 280 and 295 nm), as  well as cross-links in collagen (335 and 350 nm) and elastin (360 and 370 nm). Irritation, aging, and photoaging have been associated with alterations in the fluorescing patterns of these intrinsic fluorophores in skin. Therefore, spe

53.What is the reaction after sunburn?

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What is the reaction after sunburn? The symptoms of sunburn are different by UVB and UVA. They are pigmentation and erythema. UVB : Erythema and PPD (persistent pigment darkening) UVA: immediate pigment darkening Pigmentation 1.       Caused by melanin 2.       After 24-48 suntanned, the melanocyte will start to produce melanin and move into keratocytes. 3.       Melanin in keratocyte could protect the cell nucleus to damage by the UV radiation. 4.       The skin color is inherent, not by the distribution of melanocytes. The different skin color is influenced by the amount of melanin, types and size. 5.       Aside UVR, chronic inflammation and heat will also cause pigmentation. The pigmentation can be divided into two types. Immediate pigment darkening By UVA The color is because of the melanin oxygen from the existed keratocyte in epidermis. The oxygen is from blood circulation in subcutaneous tissue. So the reaction will reach the maximum after 1-2 hr

52.surfactant_1

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Surfactant Surface tension Interfacial tension Solubilization   A surfactant is   briefly   defined as a material that can greatly reduce the surface tension of water when used in very low concentrations. The surface of a material has the internal and external particles in a space. The interface will has two different phases. For example, the shape of a drop of water is spherical due to the interface of air and water separates the two substances and internal force of water pulls the surface particles of water. This phenomenon also happens to the immiscible liquids. It is called interfacial tension. One substance that can help two materials like water and oils mix together also reduces the interfacial tensions. It is surfactant. The applications will be in cosmetics, detergents, and so on.      -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- help to find the specific skincare product ingredients by "skin+" App

51.skin color type_ITA

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skin color type_ITA There are many methods to detect the skin health, skin surface properties, skin color, skin color type, and hair conditions. They are non-intrusive. The following is the method to figure out the skin color type.  Skin color type 1.    Fizpatrick skin types Questionnaire designed by Dr. Thomas B. Fitpatrick in 1975. Fizpatrick skin types Type I       Celtic type                   0-150 Type II.    Caucasian white          50-250 Type III    Mixed type                 100-350 Type IV    Mediterranean type    150-500 Type V     Asian/ Indian skin      150-650 Type VI    Black skin                  600-999 2.    ITA 0 (individual typology angle) calculation CIE colorimetry =[Arc Tangent ((L*-50)/b*)] x 180/ π Very light                  ITA 0  > 55 0 Light                 40 0 < ITA 0 <55 0 Intermediate      28 0 < ITA 0 <41 0 Tan/matt            10 0 < ITA 0 <28 0 Brown              -30 0 < ITA

50.ITA0 (individual typology angle)

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ITA 0 (individual typology angle) (Wikipedia, color space conversions, Adrian Ford and Alan Roberts, Aug.11, 1998) ITA values were calculated from spectrocolorimeter (Datacolor) mea­surements of the L* (Luminance) and b* (yellow/blue component) parameters. This value is based on CIELab of the CIE system. The CIE has defined a system that classifies color according to the HVS (the human visual system). This system is called color space which is in combination with physical device profiling, it allows for reproducible representations of color, in both   analog   and   digital   representations. A color is thus usually specified using three co-ordinates, or parameters. These parameters describe the position of the color within the color space being used. They do not tell us what the color is, that depends on what color space is being used. There are more than one color spaces for the applications. This is because different color spaces are better for different applications, for

49.skin color

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There are many methods to detect the skin health, skin surface properties, skin color, skin color type, and hair conditions. They are non-intrusive . Color grading,  Melanin analysis and  Colorimeter analysis are the methods to find your skin color.  Skin color 1. Color grading Classified by compared the following charts Von Luschan’s chromatic scale Human skin tone chart The Taylor hyperpigmentation scale L’Oreal skin color chart 2. Melanin analysis Observe the skin absorption and intensity of the reflected light which is illuminated by green light (568nm), red light (650-700 nm), far infrared (870nm). An erythema index for hemoglobin and a melanin index for melanin can be calculated. 3. Colorimeter analysis Use reflectance spectrophotometry to measure the color space. ------------------------------------------------------------------ help to find the specific skincare product ingredients by "skin+" App

48.Skin surface properties_elasticity

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There are many methods to detect the skin health, skin surface properties, skin color, skin color type, and hair conditions. They are non-intrusive. Skin surface properties Elasticity of skin The skin is composed by complex material. Collagen and elastic fibers in dermis provide the elasticity when the skin is under a constant force.  The measurement is to apply a force to record and analysis the reaction of skin firmness. The topography of skin Use optical method to sketch the surface of skin. surface profile cuts are generated via a plane of light or shadow cutting the surface at an angle. The emerging cutting curve can be observed through a microscope. In the throwing-shadows technique, the length of the shadows caused by slanted lighting characterizes the peak heights of a surface . ------------------------------------------------------------------ help to find the specific skincare product ingredients by "skin+" App

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