43.The surfactants in cosmetics and skin care products(1)

The surfactants used in cosmetics and skincare products more frequently nowadays as the following. The surfactants for cosmetics and skincare products not only need to consider the safety, but also need to pay attention to the influence of skin. The emulsifier should prevent skin allergy. For example, Sodium Lauryl sulfate (SLS) of surfactant ingredients is well to remove dirt, but would be over remove the lipids of skin. It is only suitable for the detergent.      

Ionic surfactant

•    Anionic surfactant

Main functions: clean dirt & as the blowing agent

1.      Sulfosuccinate ester

   Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate

   Disodium lauramido MEA-sulfosuccinate

   Dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate

   Disodium oleamido MIPA sulfosuccinate

2.      Alkyl phosphate

Mild to remove oils. It is better to adjust to weak alkylinity and neutral. It is often applied in facial and body skin care products. The material is Mono alkyl phosphate (MAP).

3.      Acyl amide, Sarcosinate

Often apply in shampoo, shower gel, facial skin care products. The material are sodium cocoyl sarcosinate and sodium lauroyl sarcosinate.

4.      Taurate

   Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate

   Sodium methyl oleyl taurate

   Sodium cocoyl isethionate

5.      Acylglutamate

   Acylglutamate

   Sodium N-lauryl-glutamate

   Sodium N-cocoyl-l-glutamate

6.      Alky sulfates

It is strong to remove oil and often used in male facial skin products. But be careful for skin aged and dermatitis in the long-term treatment.

   Sodium lauryl sulfate, SLS, C₁₂H₂₅OSO₃Na

   Ammonium lauryl sulfate, ALS, C₁₂H₂₅OSO₃NH₄

   TEA lauryl sulfate, TLS

7.      Polyoxyethylene alkylether sulfate

   Sodium lauryl ether sulfate, SLES

   Ammonium lauryl ether sulfate, ALES

   Sodium laureth-2 sulfate

   Sodium trideceth sulfate

8.      Acyl isethionate

It is often applied in soap.

   Sodium cocoyl isethionate

Cationic surfactant

Main functions: disinfectant, antistatic, and make fiber soft such as hairs

It is used for the hair care products most of the time. The ingredient will be under 2% in hair care products due to the disinfectant effect.

1.      Stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride

2.      Cetryl Trimethy Ammonium Chloride; Cetrimonium chloride, CTMAC

3.      Benzalkonium Chloride; Alkyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride

   Amphoteric surfactant

The reaction depends on the ph value of the environment. Melted in acid substance, it has the character of cationic surfactant. Melted in alkaline substance, it has the character of anionic surfactant. However, it is milder than the anionic and cationic surfactants. So it is suitable for the dry skin and baby care products.    

1.      Alkyl betain

2.      Cocoamidorpropy1 Bataine; CAPA, Lauramidopropyl Betain

It is often adjusted to 30% liquid including 6 % NaCl.

3.      Lmidazoline

 Acylamphoglycinate

                       2-Alkyl-N-Carboxy-methyl-N-Hydroxyethylimidazolinium betaine

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